Beginner-Friendly Gecko Species Guide

Congratulations on choosing a gecko as your pet! Geckos are excellent companions that require relatively low maintenance compared to cats or dogs. They can thrive in compact living spaces, produce no allergenic fur or feathers, and do not require outdoor walks.


This article introduces five gecko species suitable for both beginners and experienced reptile keepers. The Giant Day Gecko (Phelsuma madagascariensis grandis) features vibrant fluorescent-green skin with striking red patterns and requires a tropical terrarium habitat. This species is an adept climber. The White-Lined Gecko (Gekko vittatus) is another arboreal species known for its agility and need for tropical enclosure conditions. Terrestrial species include the Madagascar Ocelot Gecko (Paroedura pictus) and Central American Banded Gecko (Coleonyx mitratus), both recognized for their distinctive banding patterns and straightforward captive care requirements.


Roborowski’s gecko (Teratoscincus roborowski), commonly known as the frog-eyed gecko, is an active burrowing species with scales capable of producing a distinctive rattling sound.



Among diverse gecko varieties, there is likely a species perfectly suited to your preferences.



Gecko Behavior and Terrarium Design



Geckos exhibit numerous fascinating behaviors. Most species are known to vocalize, an ability frequently employed for territorial defense, self-protection, and courtship rituals (Henkel and Schmidt, 1995). Certain arboreal types, such as the giant day gecko and white-lined gecko, possess the ability to climb glass surfaces. The Madagascar ocelot gecko, Central American banded gecko, and frog-eyed gecko are specialized diggers and burrowers.



These behaviors become readily observable when you have invested effort in creating an optimal habitat for your gecko.


You can achieve this by referring to books and care sheets as guidelines for constructing a terrarium that mimics the gecko’s natural habitat. Some prospective gecko owners imagine a lush tropical terrarium inhabited by multiple geckos, while others prefer creating a miniature desert landscape within their homes. Suitable species exist for both types of enclosures. Pairing a gecko species with the appropriate terrarium design and accessories is a valuable pursuit. This becomes evident when observing geckos hunting crickets or basking in the environment you have crafted for them.



Pet Store Fundamentals


Several considerations are essential when selecting your ideal gecko. First, assess the health of the geckos. Inquire whether the geckos are captive-bred. Captive-bred geckos should be prioritized as they generally exhibit fewer health complications compared to wild-caught specimens.


Should healthy geckos be housed alongside sick geckos or other ill reptiles? If so, seek alternatives—the apparently healthy ones might also be diseased. Beginning your gecko-keeping journey with an unhealthy specimen often incurs significantly higher costs in time, energy, and veterinary expenses than most anticipate.



Healthy geckos exhibit alertness and responsiveness to stimuli. For instance, when handled, they should actively observe you and move energetically. A robust gecko maintains good body condition and weight. Indicators of poor health include emaciation, protruding hip bones, sunken eyes, skin wrinkles (indicating dehydration), incomplete shedding, skin lacerations, misshapen jaws, or kinked tails (potential signs of metabolic bone disease), and lethargy. Do not dismiss geckos with truncated tails—a tailless gecko can still make a suitable pet, as most regenerate new tails or adapt well to life without them.


Once you select a healthy gecko candidate, ask the pet store employee for the proper scientific name to accurately identify the species. This step is essential for obtaining correct care information. Common names, such as ‘banana gecko,’ are often unreliable for research, as multiple species may share the same common name. For example, a survey by the Global Gecko Association revealed numerous common names for the Madagascar ocelot gecko, including Madagascar ground gecko, panther gecko, big-headed gecko, and puma gecko. Common names can cause confusion, whereas scientific names provide precision, aiding in effective research and proper care of your gecko.


A care sheet or book should be purchased along with the gecko to ensure you have guidance on appropriate housing and feeding practices upon bringing it home.


Ideally, you should purchase the book first, read it thoroughly, set up your terrarium, and then acquire the gecko. The care guidelines should briefly address the gecko’s natural habitat, terrarium setup procedures, dietary requirements, and feeding frequency.



Feeding Tips:


The primary diet for most geckos consists of crickets (Acheta) and/or mealworms (Tenebrio). A fundamental feeding principle is to offer food items approximately 90% the size of the gecko’s head. Smaller prey is often ignored, while larger items may be enticing but prove too substantial for consumption. Geckos benefit from dietary variety similar to humans. Consider incorporating commercially available options such as wax worms (Galleria) and super worms (Zoophobas).



Wax worms should be provided sparingly due to their high fat content. Regular feeding may lead to geckos rejecting more nutritionally balanced foods.


Most tropical geckos enjoy fruit puree or baby food along with fruit flies. Enhance your gecko’s meal by dusting it with a high-quality multivitamin supplement containing calcium, phosphorus, and D3. For breeding females, provide a shallow dish of calcium inside the terrarium to replenish calcium reserves depleted during egg production.



The Giant Day Gecko possesses all the traits of an ideal terrarium display species: diurnal (day-active) behavior, acrobatic glass-climbing abilities, and vibrant green and red coloration. Reaching up to 12 inches in length and living up to 30 years in captivity (McKeown, pers. comm.), this species offers exceptional long-term appeal. Native to Madagascar, these hardy tropical geckos are best maintained individually or in male-female pairs (McKeown, 1993).


Sex may be accurately determined after the age of 4 months. Males have enlarged femoral pores located on their undersides just before their vents, and hemipenile bulges after the vent. Females have smaller femoral pores than males, and the hemipenile bulges are absent.



The giant day gecko will lick sprayed water droplets from leaves and terrarium surfaces. Feed these geckos 3- to 4-week-old crickets as a regular diet.



A tropical terrarium with plants and full-spectrum lighting is ideal. A 20-gallon tall terrarium or larger is adequate for a pair of adults. Vertical space is more important than horizontal space for these arboreal geckos. Terrarium furniture should include at least 2-inch diameter bamboo, PVC pipes, or wood placed diagonally and/or horizontally, allowing the lizards to rest comfortably under a basking lamp maintaining approximately 86°F (30°C) during the day.


A nighttime temperature drop is beneficial, though temperatures should not fall below the high 60s Fahrenheit. The terrarium should include plants like pothos (Epipremnum aureum) for hiding, or sturdy plants such as snake plant (Sansevieria) to support the geckos’ weight. Provide various resting spots for day geckos. Use 2 to 3 inches of potting soil or sphagnum peat moss topped with medium-grade orchid bark as substrate, placing potted plants on this layer. For enhanced humidity, plant directly into the substrate.



Mist the terrarium sides and plants once or twice daily, adjusting based on home humidity levels; increase frequency if humidity drops below 50%.


To measure humidity, you need an instrument called a hygrometer. These are often available at home electronics stores, frequently in a convenient combination with a temperature gauge.


The giant day gecko will lick sprayed water droplets from leaves and the sides of the terrarium surfaces.


Feed these geckos a regular diet of 3- to 4-week-old crickets. Mealworms, wax worms, super worms, large fruit flies, and fruit baby food or puree are excellent as occasional treats.


If well fed, they reach sexual maturity within seven to nine months. They are very easy to breed and may lay up to 36 eggs per year.


If it is necessary to move your giant day gecko for terrarium cleaning or medical care, handle it indirectly using bird nets. Grabbing them directly can cause their skin to tear off and may result in tail loss.


Their skin and tail will regenerate but may not restore their original beauty. Consider day geckos similar to tropical fish—they are best observed and appreciated visually rather than handled.



The White-Lined Gecko (Gekko vittatus) is a gentle relative of the more aggressive Tokay Gecko (Gekko gecko). This large, slender gecko displays green or brown coloration with a distinctive white stripe along its back, occasionally earning it the nickname ‘skunk gecko’ due to this pattern. Native to the tropical Indo-Australian Archipelago, it is an agile climber that uses its large toes for superior grip on trees and human structures (Henkel and Schmidt, 1995). When disturbed, this attractive gekkonid may exhibit a unique defensive behavior by curling its tail.



Reaching up to 10 inches in total length, the White-Lined Gecko can thrive in the same type of tropical terrarium setup as the Giant Day Gecko (Henkel and Schmidt, 1995).


A pair can be housed in a tall 20-gallon or larger terrarium, while a trio requires a 35-gallon or larger enclosure.


Humidity should be maintained at approximately 75%, with daytime temperatures ranging in the mid-80s Fahrenheit (Henkel and Schmidt, 1995).


Sex determination and feeding protocols align with those of the giant day gecko, using crickets as a staple diet.


Breeding this species requires minimal effort, and novice keepers often achieve success without prior experience.



The Central American banded gecko (Coleonyx mitratus) inhabits tropical forest floors from Guatemala to Costa Rica (Grismer, 1997).


This slender, nocturnally active gecko features distinctive patterning and reaches a total length of 6-7 inches (Tytle and Stevens, 1993).


Breeders report this species as both hardy and easily maintained in captivity (Hiduke and Gaines, 1997).


These geckos tolerate handling in small doses.


Henryhyrden/Wikipedia


This slender, attractively patterned, nocturnal gecko reaches a total length of about 6 to 7 inches.


A traditional glass terrarium or plastic shoebox set-up is suitable housing for this secretive gecko. If using a glass terrarium, a 10-gallon is more than adequate for a breeding pair of adults.


Sexually mature male geckos can easily be differentiated from females by the presence of hemipenile bulges at the age of 6 to 9 months. Central American banded geckos do not climb glass, so you don’t have to worry about them escaping unless you provide a ‘ramp’ to the top of the terrarium. Terrarium furniture should include hiding places, which offer geckos necessary security by keeping them hidden from external view.


A small plastic margarine tub with a gecko-sized entrance hole on top works well for this purpose. Fill the container with 3/4-inch of moist vermiculite, and it will serve multiple purposes—providing an ideal place to hide, shed skin, and lay eggs.



Succulent plants such as aloe or snake plant are suitable for a gecko terrarium. (Plastic plants are a practical alternative for those unable to maintain live plants.) Use a 2-inch layer of a substrate mixture consisting of 70% sphagnum peat moss and 30% play sand at the bottom of the terrarium (Tytle and Stevens, 1993). Breeders have also achieved success using cypress mulch, as it facilitates tunneling—a natural behavior—and maintains adequate moisture levels (Hiduke and Gaines, 1997). Both substrate types provide the necessary humidity preferred by the Central American banded gecko. The warm side of the terrarium should maintain a temperature range of 76 to 84 degrees Fahrenheit during the day.


When using a shoebox enclosure, drill a minimum of two 1/4-inch holes on each side. Heat can be provided using heat tapes or reflector lamps (exclusively in glass terrariums). Full-spectrum lighting is not required. Mist the terrarium walls with water daily to supply drinking water for the gecko, and feed three-week-old crickets three to four times per week. Wax worms may be offered occasionally as a treat.



The Madagascar Ocelot Gecko (Paroedura pictus) is a nocturnal terrestrial species native to the arid regions of southern Madagascar (Henkel and Schmidt, 1995). These geckos conceal themselves under rocks, loose bark, leaf litter, or within sand burrows during daylight hours. They attain a total length of approximately 5 inches (Bartlett and Bartlett, 1995). The species is colloquially referred to as ‘big-headed gecko’ due to its pronounced cranial structure.


There are two color pattern types: striped or banded. Sex determination occurs at the same age and in the same manner as the Central American banded gecko.



Similar to the Central American banded gecko, a breeding pair or trio (one male with two females) of Madagascar ocelot geckos adapts well to life in a plastic shoebox or 10-gallon terrarium. Given their origin in a drier climate compared to their Central American relatives, maintain a drier substrate mix—2 inches deep, composed of 30% sphagnum peat moss and 70% sand. Daily temperatures should range between 82 to 88 degrees Fahrenheit (Bartlett and Bartlett, 1995).



Three-week-old crickets should serve as the staple diet, offered three to four times weekly. Supplement with mealworms and other previously mentioned live food items as occasional snacks. Provide hydration through a water dish or by daily misting of the terrarium walls.


This gecko is a prolific breeder. Females lay their fragile eggs directly in the sand at the bottom of the terrarium, with up to 20 to 30 eggs per season (Glaw and Vences, 1994). However, they will utilize a nest box if one is available.


Calcium supplementation is critical for high-frequency egg layers such as the Madagascar ocelot gecko. Without adequate calcium reserves, females can quickly deplete their supply while laying large quantities of eggs, which puts their lives at risk.


Frog-eyed geckos (genus Teratoscincus) are nocturnal, terrestrial burrowing geckos, also referred to as plate-tailed geckos or wonder geckos. Two forms occasionally seen in pet stores are T. roborowski and T. scincus scincus. T. roborowski, also known as Roborowski’s gecko, has been recently imported in large numbers from Northwestern China into the United States.


Prior to this, Roborowski’s gecko was only found in a few private collections within the United States. Limited literature exists specifically for Roborowski’s gecko, but the author has successfully applied captive husbandry techniques known for Teratoscincus scincus scincus.



Andrew S. Gardner/Wikipedia


Teratoscincus scincus keyserlingii



Roborowski’s gecko is a stout reptile measuring 4.75 to 5.5 inches in length. It is covered with brown-orange bands of varying shades, which become more flecked as the gecko ages (Lui, 1994). The body is covered in fish-like scales that can easily detach during handling, necessitating the use of indirect handling techniques. When disturbed, Roborowski’s gecko, like all Teratoscincus species, may produce a rattling sound with its scales. This behavior is considered a form of self-defense, courtship, and territorial display (Knight, 1992).


Sex is determined in mature geckos by the presence of hemipenile bulges in males, which are absent in females. During their active evening hours, these geckos eagerly consume three-week-old crickets and mealworms.



Roborowski’s gecko originates from Turpan, an extremely hot desert along the ancient Silk Road in northwestern China (Lui, 1994). This region, also known as “Huozhou” meaning “land of fire,” experiences extreme temperatures with summers reaching 104°F and winters dropping to 5°F. These geckos inhabit deep moist burrows in the desert, requiring a terrarium with deep sand substrate and high heat. Use at least a 15- to 20-gallon sturdy glass terrarium for a pair. Important: Position the terrarium permanently before adding sand due to its weight. Provide approximately 6 inches of sand at the bottom (Girard, 1996).


Designate one end as the moist end. Spray the sand with water and mix it thoroughly. Cover an 8.5 x 6 x 3-inch commercial plastic hide box or similar PVC pipe with sand on the moist end to create a burrow entrance. Insert a smaller diameter PVC pipe vertically into the moist side and add water daily to maintain burrow humidity. Spray one side of the terrarium each evening to provide drinking water.



Next, install a reflector lamp with an incandescent bulb to achieve a daily surface temperature of 95-100°F. Night temperatures should range from 68-72°F. During winter, gradually lower temperatures to 50-60°F over three months to accommodate hibernation, then gradually warm the enclosure in spring.


A temperature drop in the winter is necessary if you wish your geckos to breed in the spring.



Your Gecko’s First Day Home: Once you have selected your gecko, the first day home should be a quiet one. Often it will take a few days for the gecko to adapt to its new home. Offer food on the second day. If the first few crickets or mealworms are not eaten within a one-hour period, remove them and try again the next day. Avoid leaving too many crickets in with your new gecko because this causes stress to the gecko, and the crickets soon lose their nutritional value since there is nothing for them to eat in the terrarium.



Quarantine and Veterinary Care: If you are planning to introduce your new gecko to a terrarium with geckos already in it, be sure to first quarantine your new gecko away from the established lizards for two to three months until you are sure it is healthy.


You do not want to infect your geckos by introducing a new specimen whose health is uncertain, even if it appears healthy. A fecal examination conducted by a veterinarian experienced with reptiles is an effective method to confirm a gecko’s health. It is advisable to keep the contact details of a veterinarian readily available to avoid frantic searches during an emergency.



Conclusion


These five excellent pet shop geckos are outstanding choices for pets and can provide many years of enjoyment. However, there are numerous other great gecko options, as this group of reptiles is remarkably large and diverse. There is a gecko to suit every preference!



The author extends gratitude to Christine Harney, Sean McKeown, Philip A. Tremper, Jr., and the Global Gecko Association for their inspiration and valuable assistance.



References


Bartlett, R.D. and Patricia P. Bartlett. 1995. The ocelot gecko. pp.84-85 in Geckos: A Complete Pet Owner’s Manual. Barron’s Educational Series, Inc. Hong Kong.



Girard, Francis. 1996. Captive Husbandry and Reproduction of Teratoscincus scincus. Dactylus 3(1): 4-6.



Glaw, Frank and Miguel Vences. 1994. A Field Guide to the Amphibians and Reptiles of Madagascar. Moos Druck, Leverkusen and FARBO. Germany.



Grismer, L. Lee. 1997. Eublepharid Geckos: living relics of evolution. Fauna 1(1): 26-33.



Henkel, Wilhelm Friederich and Wolfgang Schmidt. 1995. Geckoes: Biology, Husbandry and Reproduction. Krieger Publishing Company. Malabar, Florida.



Hiduke, Joe and Meadow Gaines. 1997. Central American Banded Geckos: Coleonyx mitratus. Reptiles 5(10): 76-87.



Knight, C. Michael. 1992. Tail Stridulation Behavior in Teratoscincus scincus.


Dactylus 3(1): 4-6.



Lui, Wai. 1994. In Search of Roborowski’s Gecko, Teratoscincus roborowski. Dactylus 2(3): 93-97.



McKeown, Sean. 1993. The General Care and Maintenance of Day Geckos. Advanced Vivarium Systems. Lakeside, California.



Tytle, Tim and Paul Stevens. 1993. Maintenance and Breeding of the Central American Banded Gecko. Vivarium 5(2): 18-19.



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